Where do you want to fly?
This Southeast Asian restaurant has experienced its ups and downs—and chef shuffles—in recent years. Now the place finally feels on steady footing, thanks to Johanna Hellrigl, who in a prior life worked across Asia for a global organization empowering women. Hellrigl has expanded the menu’s Thai and Vietnamese scope—it now makes pit stops in Cambodia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, and beyond. One Laotian dish looks like a corn dog but is actually a split lemongrass stalk stuffed with ground pork. Meanwhile, a vegan twist on massaman curry incorporates jackfruit and purple sweet potato into its rich peanut sauce. Moderate.